A LONG-TIME EXPLORER SHARES HIS 6 FAVORITE TRAILS

Story and photos by Christopher Boykin

“Who in the hell would want to go hiking on this snake-infested watery trail?”

If you need a break from the impervious surfaces in the Megatropolis that is our crowded but lovely South Florida, then head for the forests, fresh air, open vistas and miles upon miles of trails.

I’ve been exploring—snorkeling, paddling, boating, biking and hiking—the wilds within an hour or two of South Florida since arriving from a Mississippi peach farm in 1990. I’ll now share the six best trails to find solitude, see wildlife, get in some real miles and restore the soul.

And I should note that what Florida lacks in elevation hiking is made up for in difficult terrain. Hiking through a foot of water and mud for 10 miles is hardcore. Colorado has nothing on us!

The watery wilderness in Biscayne National Park off Greater Miami’s coastline was created to protect coral reefs and archeological sites (shipwrecks) spread over 173,000 acres. It also boasts an impressive hiking trail on beautiful Elliot Key.

#1 Spite Trail is its eight-mile “out and back” trail which totals 16 miles. This island is comprised of dense mangroves and tropical hardwood hammocks. Highlights include a remote beach at the northern end of the trail, shade (yes, shade) the entire hike, a plethora of endangered plants, and a chance to glimpse the endangered Schaus swallowtail and Miami blue butterflies.

Most visitors to Everglades National Park barely have time to stop at the numerous interpretive trails and overlooks on the main road that stretches 38 miles from Homestead to Flamingo. I recommend all of these stops, which can be enjoyed by families of varying abilities and ages.

There are, however, trails not on all of the glossy park brochures, not paved and not containing interpretive signs. I spent years enjoying the Everglades before becoming aware of these.

#2 The Pineland trails at ENP provide a network of 43 miles for hiking (and mountain biking) along old fire roads cutting through pinelands, prairie and hardwood hammocks. The main trail, two ruts in the limestone bedrock, offers beautiful and serene hiking. But it gives the added excitement of knowing that you could meet a panther, a bear or an Eastern diamondback rattlesnake. Once I saw three rattlesnakes within 15 minutes on Research Road, which bisects several segments of these trails, and have heard of more than a dozen panther sightings from this area.

#3 Fire Prairie Trail, which lies in Big Cypress National Preserve, is a 2.5-mile “out and back” trail (five miles roundtrip) that can be accessed from the wild and dusty Turner River Road stretching from Tamiami Trail to Alligator Alley (I-75). The trail starts along a fern-lined canal road dotted with cypress trees. Then it soon gives way to a vast open prairie that stretches for miles. It’s one of the largest and greatest open spaces I’ve encountered in South Florida. I observed seven deer during one hike and it was the first time I’d seen deer running into cypress domes. An acquaintance saw a bear there once and I also saw a bobcat when getting back in my car.

The drive along Turner River Road alone is worthwhile as reptiles and amphibians abound. You’ll see more alligators than you can count. And lots of colorful wild flowers, depending on the season.

#4 Loop Road to the Oasis Visitor Center is a 7.8-mile portion of the Florida Trail, which meanders more than 1,300 miles to the Florida Panhandle. The start of this portion is a bit looming as you walk off the gravel Loop Road and start your hike in shin-deep water. The first time I saw the trailhead, I wondered: Who in the hell would want to go hiking on this snake-infested watery trail? Is this even a trail?

This is one of the most beautiful, and also most difficult, segments of the Florida Trail. Water is ankle- to knee-deep the entire 7.8 miles.

Hikers should plan on a pace of roughly 1 to 1.5 miles per hour. It is slow going, a great workout and a beautiful hike. The trail (like all of the Florida Trail) is marked by orange blazes. Coordinate in advance to leave either a bike or an auto at the visitor center in order to get back to the trailhead on Loop Road.

#5 Oasis Visitor Center to Seven Mile Camp and Beyond is a section of the Florida Trail that is much drier than the above-mentioned trail, but expect water at various points all the way to Alligator Alley 30 miles away.

The best way to take advantage of this trail is to plan a thru-hike to Alligator Alley and camp at two or three of the eight designated camp sites along the way. But day hikers can enjoy the trail simply by hiking a few miles to experience the cypress domes, open prairies and pinelands.

An ambitious day hike would be to schlep it the 6.4 miles to Seven Mile Camp for lunch and then hike out on the blue loop connector trail, also 6.4 miles long, which connects back to the main Florida Trail, and then it’s 2.9 miles to the visitor center. This trek totals 15.7 miles. This blue loop (with blue blazes) is the only side trail along the 38 miles of Florida Trail that are in Big Cypress National Preserve south of Alligator Alley.

Panthers are more numerous here than anywhere else in the state. The preserve also supports the largest population of Florida black bears outside Ocala National Forest. Look for tracks and scat, as well as venomous snakes and other wildlife.

#6 Alligator Alley to Carpenter Camp and Beyond is a section of the Florida Trail that is consistently dry, particularly since much of the trail leading to the Big Cypress Indian Reservation is along the elevated Nobles Road that runs along a canal.

Four primitive campsites are along the 16 miles of trails in this section of BCNP. I recommend veering off the main Florida Trail “orange blazes” and taking the blue loop side trail.

This is my favorite short hike and “speed” primitive camping trip in the region since it’s less than three miles to the picturesque Carpenter Camp, which is surrounded by pinelands, cypress domes and prairie. It’s the perfect hike for family and friends who want more than the wonderful, but paved, Anhinga Trail and Shark Valley experience but aren’t up for camping or a long hike. The bonus is that there are vending machines at the rest stop so you can undo all the good you did on the trail!

PERMITS

Hike #6 extends beyond BCNP into the Big Cypress Indian Reservation. A permit must be obtained via the Florida Trail Association and the BCIR 30 days in advance of hiking on tribal lands.

Backcountry permits are not required for the other hikes with the exception of those within BCNP. These permits are available at trailhead kiosks and at the Oasis Visitor Center on Tamiami Trail.

MAPS

Hiking maps can be bought from the Florida Trail Association at www.FTStore.com

WARNINGS

On all wilderness hikes bring plenty of water or a water filtration system and have appropriate footwear. Bug spray is highly recommended, especially in the summer and especially along Spite Trail. Wear hunter’s orange during deer, turkey and wild boar hunting season in BCNP.